World Heritage Sites : Caceres

Old Town of Cáceres

To the south west of Madrid, some three-quarters of the way to Portugal, the modern city of Cáceres holds a magnificent surprise for the visitor. In the heart of this bustling city lies the old town, still completely enclosed by the old town walls, where you can wander through the perfectly preserved streets of one of the most beautiful historic centres in Europe. The old town was declared a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1986, in recognition of both the variety of historical buildings, (of Roman, Islamic, Northern Gothic and Italian Renaissance styles) and the superb condition they are in. The atmosphere is enhanced after dark, when subtle and well-planned illuminations bring out the best in the architecture and the honey-coloured stonework.

The original Cáceres (Norba Caesariana) was founded by the Romans in 34 BC, most likely on top of a Celtic-Iberian settlement. In the middle of the 12th century, it was revived by the Moors as a strategic centre and the city walls were rebuilt from the existing Roman wall. Cáceres was then reconquered by King Alfonso IX in 1229 and it became part of the kingdom of Castille, with aristocratic families from the north building the mansions and palaces which established what is now the historic quarter of the town. Cáceres lived through turbulent times, not least during the struggle of the Catholic Kings, Isabella and Ferdinand, to capture Castille, when many of these mansions had their towers lopped off. However, reign of the Catholic kings brought peace and stability and most of the best-preserved buildings date from the 15th and 16th centuries, reflecting the prosperity associated with the conquest of the Americas, and the fact that so many of the conquistadors came from Extremadura.

These days, as provincial capital, Cáceres is the second biggest city in Extremadura and an important regional university centre.

Historic and Artistic centre

The old quarter, with its numerous palaces, churches and convents, is enclosed by the city wall, most of it Almohade (Moorish) in construction. Many of the defence towers are still standing and there are even a few Roman stone blocks visible. A visit to the old town is like stepping back in time, so well-preserved are the palaces, convents and mansions which greet you. The small squares and hidden corners of the old street layout add to the sense of history, as the filtered sunlight and muted sounds of the modern city reach you.

You can begin your tour from the Plaza Mayor, up the steps and through the Estrella de Churriguer archway. The two towers which flank the steps are the Bujaco Tower, which is probably Cáceres’ best-preserved monument, to the left, and the gothic Púlpitos Tower built into the city wall, on the right. The Bujaco Tower is open from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. and again in the afternoon from 4.30 until 8.30 (7.30 in the winter), and is well worth the visit.

You should also call in at the Provincial Tourism Office, which is housed in the Casa De Carvajal. As well as picking up some up-to-date information on local events, you can see the thousand-year-old fig tree growing in the central patio. The house was built in the 15th century and 16th centuries by the Carvajal family, famous for supposedly challenging King Ferdinand IV to answer to God after he had two Carvajal brothers put to death. It was restored in the 1960s after having lain abandoned for years. The Tourism Office is open from 8 a.m. to 9 p.m. Monday to Friday, and on weekends and holidays from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m.

Close by is the Palacio De Los Toledo-Moctezuma, which is a vivid reminder of the importance of Cáceres in the conquest of the Americas, as it was built for Techichpotzin, the daughter of the Aztec ruler Montezuma (Moctezuma, in Spanish) by one of her three Spanish husbands. These days it houses the Provincial Historic Archive.

From here you can visit the Palacio De Los Golfines De Abajo, with its spectacular and architecturally important facade, an excellent example of the plateresco or Silversmith-like style. This style was widely used in Spain and in South America throughout the 15th and 16th centuries. This palacio was the house the Catholics Kings stayed in when in Cáceres, as guests of the Golfin family, and you can see the royal crest or escudo above the doorway. You can also read the rather boastful inscription "Esta es la casa de los Golfines" “This is the house of the Golfin family” typical of the nobility in those times.

If your visit to Cáceres coincides with Easter, then you will want to be present at the Easter processions, which date from the 16th century and are based in the Catedral De Santa Maria. The cathedral itself is gothic in architecture, and also contains exceptional examples of plateresco style in the sacristy. A side chapel houses the Cristo Negro, which is carried aloft by hooded “brothers” in the silent processions of Eastertime. Opening times are (autumn/winter) Monday to Saturday 10 a.m. to 1 p.m. and 5 p.m. to 6.15 p.m., Sundays and holidays from 10.45 a.m. to 11.45 a.m. and 5 p.m. to 6.15 p.m.; (spring/summer) Monday to Saturday 10 a.m. to 1 p.m. and 6 p.m. to 7.15 p.m., Sundays and holidays from 10.45 a.m. to 11.45 a.m. and 6 p.m. to 7.15 p.m.

The patron saint of Cáceres is St George, as the town was liberated from Arab rule on the eve of St George’s day, 1229 by the troops of Alfonso IX, and the square which takes his name, the Plaza de San Jorge, is a striking change in architectural style from the buildings described above. We jump into the bright white decoration of the 16th to 18th centuries, mostly notably with the twin towers of the church of the Convento de San Francisco Javier.

Finally, you cannot leave the old town of Cáceres without climbing the zig-zag streets to the old Jewish quarter. In sharp contrast to what has come before, the jumbled, modest houses are clustered around the Ermita de San Antonio, which was built on the site of the ancient synagogue, and many of the houses were built into the old city walls.

Close by is Cáceres Museum, with exhibitions of relics and archaeological finds from the city and province, as well as examples of local popular arts. The museum is housed in the magnificent Casa de las Veletas, a 15th century building on the site of the old Alcázar, or fort.

It is open from Tuesday to Saturday, from 9.30 a.m. to 2.30 p.m. and 5 p.m. to 8.15 p.m. (an hour earlier in winter). Sundays and holidays: 10.15 a.m. to 2.30 p.m.

All photographs copyright Junta de Extremadura